English Stitches

4.5. Peyote Stitch "Unit of Two"

This stitch can be used in many ways.
It can be used in a round version to decorate handles from fans or rattles, just like the "unit of tree".
But it can also be used to make flat beadwork with it.

Flat version

I worked on a barrette with which I want to explain this flat kind of peyote beadwork.
As soon as I worked on the round version of this stitch, I'm gonna post some pics in here.

I found the idea and the approximate instruction on another website:
Blue Hawaii Beads

All pictures listed here are © by Native American Beadwork.

Here you can see the necessary items for making the barrette.

But what is the best way to start?
With a bead, of course!

First take up a bead and make a knot with the thread.

After that cut off the surplus thread and melt it to a knob (I always do that when working with sinew).

Now string up the other beads.

When you have the required length on the thread, count the number of beads.
It is important to know, if you have an odd or even number of beads, because working on the edges is differentt (in this case we have 47 beads, an odd number).

When you have the correct number of beads take up one more (#6 in the diagram).
This is the first bead of the next row.

Now you pass the thread through the bead before the last (4), what makes the new bead (6) to push down the last bead (5).

And in this way you have to continue.

Take up a new bead and pass the needde through the next one, then again pick up and so on.

And when you continue in this way, the end of the row looks like this.
But how to connect the last bead with the rest? There is no more bead to pass through.
Just pass the needle through the very first bead back.

Also through the next one.

Behind this bead you make a knot.

After that you pass through the very first bead, again, (here the dark blue one) and through the last one of the second row (light green).

Now you can start with the next row.

Now I'd like to explain, what to do, when you have an odd number of beads?

It all would be much easier:

Is my piece consisting of an even number of beads (in the drawing 1-4) so is the second row ending with bead no. 6.
After that you pass through the last/first bead and you can pick up the first bead for the third row (no. 7).

Ending the third row is the very same thing.

But now back to our barrette:

The third row is done the same way as the others before. Just the ending is a little different.

The last bead is lower than the one before.

Therefor you just have to pick up the next bead, which is the first one for the fourth row.

Does that way ring a bell? Yes, it is exactly the same procedure when we started the second row.

Now you pass the needle through the one before the last.

The fourth row is worked as the others before.

For this end and the following on this side I developed my own technique:

When the needle is passed through the last bead, just take up the next one of the new row and pass the needle again through the last one.

Now you can go on working just as before.

From now on everythin is just a repetition of the previous works steps.

Now it is getting interesting.
Now we are working on the decoration:

Just pick up a few smaller beads, then a pre-drilled shell, and again the smaller beads.
The more smaller beads the longer the loop.

Then pass the needle through an upcoming bead.
It doesn't matter how far apart the loop is hanging.
Just work your way.

Then pull the loop tight and sting up the next one.

It is also possible to vary the width of the loops and the length, as well as the sequence of the different shells.

SO much for the first row.

Best is to turn the workpiece and start with the next row. It is easier to work tha way.

And then the following rows, depending on how many loops you wanna have.

The upper part is finished.

But now we have to prepare the barrette itself, so we can attach the beadwork part to it easily.
If you don't want to put much time in it, just take hot glue and attach the beadwork to the metal.
But if you want a more durable way, chose this approach:

Such "empty" barrettes you get in almost any craft stores.
I used buckskin for this one, but any other leather will do the job, if it is not to thin or hard.

First you have to take the barrette apart.

Now take the lower part and glue it on the leather.
After that you have to cut the leather.

The strip has to be broad enough to be wrapped around and sewn around the part. Don't cut to broad, or the beadwork on top would slide with the leather. Sew it very tight, since the leather will stretch a little.

Don't forget the cut on the side, the ends have to be sewn in a different way.

Here you can see the middle part already sewn together.

CUt away exccess leather ...

... turn the leather up and sew through the hole in the barrette.

Well done!

Now take the beadwork part and sew it to the brim of the leather.

I passed the needle thtrough one bead and then the leather.
Then I took the next but one bead (the higher on) and through the leather again.

Finished!

Now put the barrette back together ...

... and you completed your work!

I wish you a lot of success when working on your own projects!

Round version

For this first try I made a keyring a little different and with a new design.
How to glue the leather on to the wood just look up the workshop peyote 3.

On the picture on the left you can see the design, the wood, already with the glued-on leather, as well as the needed beads.

On the right the design alone.

Melt the end of the thread to a knob and take the needle through the leather right in the middle.
Why take the middle?
so you can start the design exact in the center if you have neither experience nor an exact pattern.

Now you thread the first row (e.g. the middle).

In the lower picture I marked the path of the "first row".
This one is running in zig zag, because from the next row on you take only every second bead.
Therefore the first row is moved and the zig zag is forming.

Take the needle again through the first few beads and pull the thread taut.

Now comes the real challenging part.

Challenging because you have to place the looped up beads correctly, which is quite difficult in the beginning. The characteristic zig zag is developing. That's why one has to work extra careful.

After you pick up the first new bead (careful check the right color!!!) you skip the next bead and take the needle to the following.

Due to the looped up bead the skipped bead gets pushed down when you pull the thread taut. That's how the zig zag starts.

And again you pick up a bead, skip a bead and take the needle through the next one.

When you carry on this technique ....

.... you see the zig zag come out.

You have accomplished the first and most difficult row of all.
Congratulation!

Here you can see the pattern of the first half grow.

Now the end.

I tried to make the same smooth ending as with the peyote 3, but this turned out to be much more difficult.
Responsible for the difficulties is the fact, that every second bead is on top (with peyote 3 there it is every 3rd bead).

Therefore the distances between the topbeads are to small.

First i tried to pull the beads together.

But here you can see left and right bulges, because the beads push each other away.

Therefore I tried to sew down the beads as good as it was possible.

Here the finished ending.

And here you can see the "growing design" of the other half.

At the end of the design there was still a little bit of leather left (was supposed to be the middle ;-)) I spontaneously added a row with white beads.

As for the finishing I put some fringe on.

This is a variation of the edge beading.

First you pull the needle through one of the higher beads, then you thread about 5 beads and take the needle through the next high bead.

That is how the loops are growing.

This is the finished keyring:

Here you can download the graph paper to create your own designs, no matter of flat or round.

Good luck with your own projects :-)

	When you have the correct number of beads take up one more (#6 in the diagram). This is the first bead of the next row. Now you pass the thread through the bead before the last (4), what makes the new bead (6) to push down the last bead (5).

	And in this way you have to continue. Take up a new bead and pass the needde through the next one, then again pick up and so on.


	And when you continue in this way, the end of the row looks like this. But how to connect the last bead with the rest? There is no more bead to pass through. Just pass the needle through the very first bead back.
	Also through the next one.

	Behind this bead you make a knot.

	After that you pass through the very first bead, again, (here the dark blue one) and through the last one of the second row (light green). Now you can start with the next row.

	First take up a bead and make a knot with the thread.
	After that cut off the surplus thread and melt it to a knob (I always do that when working with sinew).
	Now string up the other beads.
	When you have the required length on the thread, count the number of beads. It is important to know, if you have an odd or even number of beads, because working on the edges is differentt (in this case we have 47 beads, an odd number).


The third row is done the same way as the others before. Just the ending is a little different.
	The last bead is lower than the one before.
	Therefor you just have to pick up the next bead, which is the first one for the fourth row. Does that way ring a bell? Yes, it is exactly the same procedure when we started the second row.
	Now you pass the needle through the one before the last.

The fourth row is worked as the others before.
	For this end and the following on this side I developed my own technique:

	When the needle is passed through the last bead, just take up the next one of the new row and pass the needle again through the last one.

	Now you can go on working just as before.
From now on everythin is just a repetition of the previous works steps.

	Just pick up a few smaller beads, then a pre-drilled shell, and again the smaller beads. The more smaller beads the longer the loop.
	Then pass the needle through an upcoming bead. It doesn't matter how far apart the loop is hanging. Just work your way.
	Then pull the loop tight and sting up the next one.
	It is also possible to vary the width of the loops and the length, as well as the sequence of the different shells.
	SO much for the first row.
	Best is to turn the workpiece and start with the next row. It is easier to work tha way.
	And then the following rows, depending on how many loops you wanna have.

	Such "empty" barrettes you get in almost any craft stores. I used buckskin for this one, but any other leather will do the job, if it is not to thin or hard.
	First you have to take the barrette apart.
	Now take the lower part and glue it on the leather. After that you have to cut the leather.
	The strip has to be broad enough to be wrapped around and sewn around the part. Don't cut to broad, or the beadwork on top would slide with the leather. Sew it very tight, since the leather will stretch a little.
	Don't forget the cut on the side, the ends have to be sewn in a different way. Here you can see the middle part already sewn together.
	CUt away exccess leather ...
	... turn the leather up and sew through the hole in the barrette.
	Well done! Now take the beadwork part and sew it to the brim of the leather.
	I passed the needle thtrough one bead and then the leather. Then I took the next but one bead (the higher on) and through the leather again.
	Finished! Now put the barrette back together ...
	... and you completed your work!
	I wish you a lot of success when working on your own projects!

	Melt the end of the thread to a knob and take the needle through the leather right in the middle. Why take the middle? so you can start the design exact in the center if you have neither experience nor an exact pattern.
	Now you thread the first row (e.g. the middle). In the lower picture I marked the path of the "first row". This one is running in zig zag, because from the next row on you take only every second bead. Therefore the first row is moved and the zig zag is forming.
	Take the needle again through the first few beads and pull the thread taut.
	Now comes the real challenging part. Challenging because you have to place the looped up beads correctly, which is quite difficult in the beginning. The characteristic zig zag is developing. That's why one has to work extra careful.
	After you pick up the first new bead (careful check the right color!!!) you skip the next bead and take the needle to the following.
	Due to the looped up bead the skipped bead gets pushed down when you pull the thread taut. That's how the zig zag starts.
	And again you pick up a bead, skip a bead and take the needle through the next one.
	When you carry on this technique ....
	.... you see the zig zag come out.


First i tried to pull the beads together.	But here you can see left and right bulges, because the beads push each other away.	Therefore I tried to sew down the beads as good as it was possible.

		Here the finished ending.